Get your own Free Home Page"In Parts 1 and 2 the recall was defined as a specific exercise in which the dog responds promptly by centering himself in a sitting position in front of his handler. Instructions were given for luring the very young puppy into performing this behavior.
It takes three repetitions of a behavior for that behavior to be imprinted in a dog's mind. The more often a dog repeats a behavior the more deeply imprinted that behavior is.
Think of it this way: if a dog does 10 recalls, how likely do you think it is that he will do number 11?
If he does 100 recalls, how likely is it that he will do the 101st?
If he does 1000 recalls, how likely is it that he will do number 1001?
You got it. The more recalls a dog does, the more likely he is going to be to respond when you need him to.
If you are starting an older dog, you may find that you need to undo some training before laying down the new patterns of behavior. Please remember that if your dog has performed a behavior three times, it is imprinted in his brain. You can lay a 'carpet' over that imprint but under times of stress the dog may revert to the earlier imprint. Using that same silly carpet analogy, you'll want to make that new carpet's 'pile' as plush and deep as possible.
If you have really blown it the first time around, or your dog is a real 'hood', or if you have a recycled dog whose background is unknown, you may want to just reteach the lesson from the beginning, with a brand new command. A dog may know that "come" means....well, if you feel like it, comeon over....well, okay, water the tree first....visit with the neighbors......bury that bone.... But "ishkabibble" means get that butt over here and sit square in front of me and don't move til you're told.
Patterning the older puppy or adult dog is similar to patterning the very young puppy except that from 4 months up, the outside world will make more of an impression on your dog than it did when he was very young (unless you have already conditioned him otherwise.) Therefore, we are going to begin training on a collar and leash. What kind of collar you use, I'll leave to you. The leash should be at least 6 feet long and since it is a signalling device and not a restraining device, it should be no more than 3/4" wide for the largest dogs, and 1/4 or 1/8" wide for the littlest guys. My preference is for leather, because it gives a better grip and feel to the handler.
As you are walking along with your dog (who is no longer pulling you because you have dealt with this issue already) you are holding the bulk of the leash in your right hand, and your left hand is grasping the leash loosely. You also have food or other motivator in your right hand. (Some of us run out of hands real quick and carry the food [if humanly etible] in the mouth. Do what ever feels comfortable for you.)
When you are ready to call your dog you are going to pause on your left stride, with your weight on your left foot, say the dog's name and the command "come", and just like with the very young puppy, you are going to show the dog the motivator and then you are going to step backward on your right foot for several paces, until the dog is directly in front of you. Then stop, use the food to lure the dog into the sit position. Make him hold the sit for just a few seconds, then release with an "Okay" command and praise (food). The slack in the leash that is created as the dog moves toward you should be gathered in as you move backward, so that if you need to give a correction for the sit, you will be ready.
If the dog does not show interest in a motivator, it may be necessary to pop the leash toward you. This should be an instructional pop and not a punitive one. You just want to get the dog moving in the right direction. You want him to move under his own power.
Gradually increase the distance of the recall, using longer leads or a flexi. Gradually increase the time the dog is required to sit in front before being released (or finished, depending on whether you are teaching that exercise.) Add distractions -- as many and as varied as you can think of, until the dog takes a distraction as a cue to watch you. Also, train in different places. Perhaps invite a few friends with dogs to train with you.
Very imporant: smile at your dog. They do respond to nonverbal signals.
This is the foundation for the recall as it is performed in AKC obedience competitions. IMHO, every dog should do this but a prerequisite to the formal recall is a solid stay. With your dog sitting on your left side, give the command and hand signal to "stay" and step off on your right foot. Remember that the dogs read all of our body language. When we step off on the left foot it is a signal to "heel". When we step off on the right foot, it is a signal to "stay."
Go to the end of your leash, extend your left arm (which hand is holding the leash) to get a little extra distance, and turn to face your dog. Wait until you are certain that the dog is settled in to obeying the "stay" command, then say the dog's name and "come". Step backward, reeling in the leash as in the informal recall. Have the dog sit in front. Use food as a reward. and release with an "Okay" or have your dog finish to heel position.
Gradually increase the distance of the recall, using longer leads or a flexi. Gradually increase the time the dog is required to sit in front before being released (or finished, depending on whether you are teaching that exercise.) Add distractions -- as many and as varied as you can think of, until the dog takes a distraction as a cue to watch you. Also, train in different places. Perhaps invite a few friends with dogs to train with you.
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